Date:
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21 - 25 /06/2017
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Location:
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Cape Range - Ningaloo Reef (Western Australia)
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Distance Travelled:
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170 km
|
Temperature:
|
Min:
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10.2
|
|
Max:
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28.1
|
Whale sharks swam
with
|
3
|
As is often the case on days when we are preparing to shift
from one place to another, we were up early and ready to hit the road. Having
arranged to have our windscreen fixed (finally)
in Exmouth, we were determined to ensure that we would be there on time. So,
pulling out of Bullara Station, we waved goodbye to the sheep who were wandering
aimlessly through the campsite, said ‘see
ya later’ to Damper John and watched as several flocks of galahs made their
early morning rounds of the Bullara water holes; before turning onto the Minilya-Exmoth
road toward Cape Range.
The drive to Exmouth was lovely; especially as we watched the
sun creeping slowly into the sky, bathing the land in that pristine sort of light
you only ever see at the start of a new day. I must admit, in my day-to-day
life, I don’t usually appreciate such things. This is particularly so when the
sun is rising as I’m heading to work. Back in the ‘real world’, any day on which I see the sun rising over the horizon,
typically means I’m heading to an early morning meeting; rather than spending an
extra hour in bed. But, deep in the heart of the Western Australia wilderness,
the rising of the sun brought with it a sense of adventure and the promise of
exciting times yet to come. As such, on this fine morning, any thoughts of
staying in bed were summarily cast from our minds.
Thus, we found ourselves hurtling down the road, along a
narrow peninsular jutting out between the Indian Ocean and Exmouth Gulf.
Arriving at Exmouth, we soon encountered the usual hallmarks of a big town.
However, this place still had the feel of a seaside destination. Amongst the
hardware shops and light industrial spaces, there were marinas, boating supply
shops, and all manner of outlets ready to supply the traveller’s every need and
desire. But for us, we had a single task in mind – to get the irksome crack fixed,
which had been marring our vision out of the front window.
We found the windscreen repair shop easily enough. Pulling
up alongside a host of other vehicles that had been parked on a patch of waste
ground, we unhitched the van on the edge of a slip road opposite the mechanics.
With everything locked up tightly, we drove our cracked and bedraggled Pajero
into the fix-it-shop. The folks at Exmouth
Smash Repairs were quite delightful. Not only did they offer to keep an eye
on our trailer, while we went off to explore the town, but also happily dropped
us a few kilometres down the road in the heart of Exmouth. Never being one to
look a gift horse in the mouth, we accepted their kind offer, piled into the
car and tootled down the road.
Having been dropped off in the heart of Exmouth by our friendly
mechanical taxi service, we headed to the nearest bakery for a spot of
breakfast. Having scoffed down an egg and bacon roll and a strong cup of
coffee, we soon felt fully watered and raring to go. As such, we took a quick nosey
around the shops before heading to a public water park where the boys had a
good run around.
Ben and Daniel on the 'Big Chair' in Exmouth
This place was brilliant!! However, I’m not really sure how
to describe it… it wasn’t a water park, as such – rather it was more of public space
filled with watery fun for kids to cool off in the hot summer’s sun. Sitting
alongside a grassy playing field, this area was a fenced off area with all
manner of jets and sprinklers spewing their misty water all over the place.
There were water fountains, a model whale (complete with a spout from its
blowhole), cascading showers and water cannons to play with. Fortunately, there
was also a smattering of sunlight pouring through the railings, which was just
warm enough to keep the early morning chill away.
Exmouth Water Park
A few hours later I gave the folks at Exmouth Smash Repairs a call and found that
the car was just about ready to rock and roll. Leaving Nat and the boys to play
for a little longer, I sauntered down the main road and picked up our car with
its sparkling new windscreen (they had even reattached our tourist passes to
the new window!). Hitching up our trailer once more, I waved goodbye to our beneficent
glaziers, picked up the rest of the clan and soon we were on our way.
Exmouth – Giant prawn
Pulling out of Exmouth, we only had a mere 50 kilometre drive
up the peninsula, around the corner and back down the other side of the cape to
reach out destination. Surrounded by water, we enjoyed the route down the
coast, watching waves crashing on the rocky shore as we came ever closer to our
final destination of Cape Ningaloo National Park
Exmouth to Osprey Bay
And soon, we arrived at Osprey Bay. Oh my… What can I say?
Cape Ningaloo was awesome!
Now, I know I’ve used the word awesome a few times while writing this blog… But seriously, this
time awesome means AWESOME!
Welcome to Cape Range
Forty kilometres from the start of the Ningaloo National
Park, down a coastal road with grass covered mountains on the left and the
crashing ocean on the right, Osprey
Bay campsite was nestled amongst sand dunes
and spinifex. There were forty-ish large campsites, spread out over a couple of
kilometres, set along the rugged rocky coast overlooking the sea.
Osprey Bay campsite at sunset
Driving down the immaculately kept road towards the
campsite, we were soon hailed by the camp hosts who had been charged with the
sacred pact of looking after this patch of earth. As we trundled our way down
the track, Mr and Mrs Camphost came out of their trailer and hailed us down.
Quick as a flash they verified our bona fides, and once thoroughly satisfied,
they cordially waved us on to our oceanside colonnade. We had expected some
level of checking upon arrival; particularly after we passed the huge sign at
the entrance to the park advising potential visitors that all campsites were “FULL!”.
But luckily for us, Nat had headed the advice of our good friends at Morrows
Westward Adventure and had booked early!
When I was younger, I remember watching the likes of Paul Daniels,
David Copperfield and (bless his little cotton socks) Tommy Cooper, performing
their arcane arts on telly. You know, pulling rabbits from a hat and making the
statue of liberty disappear, and things like that. But, for all the magic I’d
seen as a kid, I’d never witnessed a feat as tremendous as the magic Nat had
performed when securing this fine campsite.
Osprey bay
Even during this ‘off season’ time of the year, the Osprey Bay
campsite was pretty much full to the gunnels. While we set up our trailer, we
watched as van after van came and were sent on their way by Mr and Mrs Camphost,
when their names were not found on the sacred clipboard.
But, for us, these trifles were not our concern. Indeed, way
back in the distant past of late summer 2016, Nat had spent many evenings
pouring over maps, blogs and websites with the aim of locating the perfect spot
for us to pull up at in Cape Range. Amidst all these late nights, with a
protractor and compass in hand, Nat finally had a eureka moment when she eventually
triangulated the perfect spot. Perched at the ideal position between camp
toilets, beach and open swathes of sky, she had calculated the most impeccable campsite
amongst the dozens that were on offer…
…and as we pitched up for the night, I couldn’t have agreed
more!
Osprey Bay - just perfect!
All the camp sites at Osprey Bay were cordoned off by a simple
timber fence, with a lucky few (aka US!) having private paths leading the 20
meters or so down to the water’s edge. Underfoot, the sites consisted of
thickly packed earth and shells (which were an absolute bugger to try and drive
a tent peg into for holding one’s awning). Fortunately, I was lucky enough to
meet a number of kind hearted Samaritans, who took pity in my plight (or
perhaps had spent enough time laughing at me trying to drive a tent peg into
the unshifting earth) and came over with a rubber mallet and screwdriver to
help drive the pegs home. While the kids played on the beach, the trailer was
eventually set up and the welcome mat was set out.
Osprey Bay campsite
The next few days passed in blissful, sandy frolics. During
the day, the sun shone gleefully on the lapping waves of the beach meters from
our campsite; as the sea crept its way languidly up and down the sand. At their
apogee, the waves pummelled into the rocky shoreline, before turning around and
sweeping down the sea floor back to its sandy nadir many meters below.
Osprey Bay - Life on the ocean waves
Being so close to the water, there was of course plenty of
opportunities to drop a line or two into the waves. Unfortunately, there wasn’t
much biting – other than a couple of undersized flounders. But, as they say, a
bad day of fishing always beats your best day at work, hands down!
With a lovely breeze coming in from the ocean, many of our
evenings were spent unfurling the kite that we had lugged around the country –
in search of the perfect place to let it sail across the sky. Indeed, we found
the perfect place for a spot of kite flying here at Ningaloo, and soon we had
small crowds of kids lining up to have a go at taming the winds with our
colourful sail. This kite had been a gift to the boys from their uncle Gareth a
few years ago; but until now, it hadn’t been given a proper opportunity to
truly spread its wings. As it turns out, Ben was a dab hand at aerial
acrobatics… he’s always said he wanted to be a pilot; perhaps this is hint of
things to come!
Ospey Bay - Kite flying
The water in front of our trailer was also filled with all
manner of aquatic life. Flashy schools of large silvery fish (who, in
retrospect, I’m glad were too smart to get hooked by my fishing line) swam
shoulder to shoulder (or fin to fin) with green turtles and reef sharks. Nat,
who preferred to keep herself firmly planted in the shallower waters near the
beach, was lucky enough to swim for several hundred meters alongside a massive
turtle (while Ben and I were at least 500 meters out in the ocean trying in
vain to find one of the buggers…). Ben and I did eventually see and swim with a
battalion of turtles, but on that particular day Nat had a magical time of her
own in this unexpected one-on-one encounter with such a majestic beast.
Osprey Bay - Reef Sharks
Despite having paradise on our doorstep, we also remained
cognizant that there were other slices of heaven to explore nearby. On one of
our days at Ningaloo, we spent hours at the nearby ‘Oyster Stacks”. This was a
superb place for snorkelling, with next to no effort required to see all of the
wonders on offer. This stretch of beach was caressed by a fairly strong
current, which flowed from left to right along the beach. As such, all one
needed to do was traipse a little way up the shore; hop in the water and
casually swim out 20 – 30 meters; then let the current pull you gently along.
As you floated in the water, it was almost as if you were flying over cities of
coral; each of which was inhabited by a myriad of colourful marine denizens, all
going about their daily life unperturbed by the giant floating onlooker
cruising overhead.
The giant pillars of coral and stacks of oyster encrusted
rocks weren’t the most colourful (these were hard corals, which are far duller
than their brilliantly coloured gaudy ‘soft coral’ cousins on the east coast).
But, they were teeming with life – from little electric coloured fish, to large
clams the size of a chest of draws. Amongst all of this were monolithic
turtles, cruising their way amongst the patches of sea grass (but if spooked,
these fellas could take off like a rocket!), and all manner of fish from the
microscopic to specimens almost as large as me!
Marine Life
In order to top off our Ningaloo adventure, we felt it was
only right to leave the shelter of the inner reef and venture out into the
ocean to swim with the biggest fish in the world. As such, on a cold and
blustery morning, Nat, the boys and I, found ourselves standing on a concrete pier
waiting to board a boat in search of an elusive whale shark (Rhincodon
typus). Fortunately (or rather, thanks to Nat’s tremendous planning), these
magnificent creatures made this stretch of the coast their home during this
time of the year. Throughout the months of April to August, these great beasts
come out to play around Ningaloo Reef. Here they cruise the waters in search of
food, trying to sate their voracious appetite (they have rather big bellies,
after all…). Growing between 4 – 8 meters in length (in these waters at least –
elsewhere they can be up to 12 meters long and weigh up to 19 metric tonnes),
the gentle giants that inhabit Cape Range are mere teenagers compared with the
specimens that occasionally appear in the deep waters of the Indian Ocean.
Whale sharks - All aboard, here we go!
Meeting the crew of 3Islands
Whale Dive Tours, we and the other 20ish expectant passengers who were
huddled together on the pier, were ferried in small groups to a boat anchored off
shore. Once we were all aboard, and safety briefings were completed, we took to
the open waters and cruised around for a few hours in search of these elusive
critters. Along the way, we spotted pods of dugongs and dolphins, and spent a
few hours searching for blue whales that had been sighted on the horizon
earlier in the day.
Before long, the boat picked up the trail of a whale shark,
so we abandoned the search for blue whales and got down to the business we’d
signed up for. Over several hours we dropped into the cool waters of the Indian
Ocean and swam alongside a handful of the largest and most magnificent beasts
on the planet. In small groups of 10, we plunged into the briny depths, followed
a spotter from the crew and swam out little hearts out. At times these great
beasts moved dreamily through the water, cruising up and down in the water –
disappearing for a short while into the murky depths, before reappearing again
beneath us as it followed a trail of plankton through the columns of water.
Whale sharks - Ningaloo Reef
And so, with the best of Ningaloo experienced, we regretfully
had to pack up our home on wheels and hit the road once more. Thankfully
though, we weren’t saying goodbye to our beachy paradise for long, as we would
be heading down the coast to Coral Bay…
…I hear there have been Manta Rays spotted there recently –
AWESOME!
Until next time,
Bye ‘d bye,
Gregg
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